Self adhesive insulation, with extended, prefolded or elastic fasing tabs, self adhesive net, self adhesive air vent, self adhesive paper hanging support strips

ABSTRACT

Installing insulation over the years hasn&#39;t really changed that much. We are all aware of using the spring wire, then nailing on the staple gun. There are now the so called pressure sensitive adhesive lateral flanges. But I find still installing insulation is still a very hard and slow moving job, even when staples or nails are no longer needed. Claims 35-2 drawing sheet

RELATED U.S. APPLICATIONS DATA Reference Cited United States Patent

6,579,586 Fay, Blalock Jun. 17, 2003 6,221,464 Patel, Schmitt, Heffelinger Apr. 24, 2001 5,421,133 Berden, Shaffer, Stort Jun. 6, 1995 4,709,523 Broderick, Algrim, Hayden Dec. 1, 1987 3,719,879 Franklin May 1, 1973 3,307,306 Oliver Mar. 7, 1967 3,121,649 Oliver Feb. 18, 1964

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1.) Field of the Invention

Ever since the start of insulation, weather it be hay, straw, leaves or more modern material, as we know it, today, there has always been the problem of condensation.

It's widely know that water condensation build up will destroy insulation and not stop with destroying the structure within walls, roof, etc.

The only way to prevent this enormous problem is to have excellent air ventilation.

But this easily preventive problem has been overlooked and what's being installed now, is no more than a very small solution to a very big problem.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

FIG. 1—The continuous rolled air baffle being unrolled, clearly showing the flexible adhesive taped ends with the protected cover and the many different support posts with the adhesive tape ends, no nails or staples are needed to install to any surface.

FIG. 2—Showing the flat continuous air baffle with the many different support posts with the adhesive end and the protected cover no all the ends, there is no need for nails or staples to attach to any surface.

FIG. 3—Clearly showing a dome home where the regular air baffle would be impossible to use, simply because of the round roof.

FIG. 4—The chalet with very high ceiling, clearly showing how vertical the continuous rolled or flat air baffle is.

FIG. 5—The callow home, showing how the roof will taper off, from a large base to a very thin top. And how this invention can be cut to fit any work situation, and still work at the highest peak of perfection.

FIG. 6—The round outcove addition would be impossible to install air baffles as we know it today, and them perform as they should which they can't because of the hard round radius. The continuous rolled or flexible flat air baffle would do the job correctly and efficiently.

FIG. 7—Showing as standard width between the roof rafters or roof trusses. Showing very clearly how nicely the continuous rolled or flat flexible air baffle is completely secure to the roof flooring by the self sticking adhesive tape on the flanges and by the ending on the support post ends.

FIG. 8—Extra wide space or uneven space between the roof rafters or roof truss. What is very clear is how universal this air baffle is. You are able to stick the ends together for a tight seal and attach to the side walls of the rafter or truss and still have unobstructed air flow maintained always.

FIG. 9—Showing how easily to remove the protected tape adhesive stripes just before installing the continuous rolled or flat flexible air baffle.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

FIG. 1—Showing the continuous rolled and flexible air baffle.

-   -   2) the Self-Adhesive Tape Flanged ends.     -   3) The many support post.     -   4) The end of the support posts with self adhesive end with the         protected cover on each end.     -   5) Showing the flexible mat that the support ends are attached         to.

FIG. 2, 1) showing the continuous flexible flat air baffle.

-   -   2) Showing how easy to attach to the other end of the air baffle         for a tight seal so there always and unobstructed continuous air         flow     -   3) Showing the self adhesive taped ends     -   4) Showing how easy to fold the end downward     -   5) The flat supporting flexible holding mat     -   6) The supporting post with the self adhesive tape     -   7) The protected adhesive tape

FIG. 3—1) roof air vent

-   -   2) Continuous rolled roofing support ends     -   3) Showing just how flexible the continuous rolled air baffle is     -   4) Dome roof insulation being protected by the continuous rolled         air baffle supporting mat.     -   5) Sheetrock against the insulation     -   6) Rounded rafters supporting the roof system with unobstructed         continuous air flow     -   7) Safety vent

FIG. 4)

-   -   1) chalet roof vent     -   2) showing the continuous flat air baffle     -   3) showing the supporting post ends that are attached to the         roof by the self-adhesive tape on each end     -   4) the insulation between the continuous flat, flexible air         baffle     -   5) the sheetrock against the insulation     -   6) the chalet roof rafter on roof truss, showing the         unobstructed air flow from the soffit vent to the roof vent.     -   7) Soffit vent

FIG. 5)

-   -   1) Roof vent     -   2) Willow house roof rafters     -   3) Clearly showing how early the continuous rolled air baffle         works, when installing on a rounded and tapered end roof     -   4) Soffit vent     -   5) The continuous rolled air baffle support post ends     -   6) Even though the roof is tapered. The airflow is unobstructed

FIG. 6)

-   -   1) the outcove addition wall showing the continuous rolled air         baffle support ends     -   2) insulation between the continuous rolled air baffle and the         studed walls     -   3) the interior wall, against the insulation     -   4) The supporting post ends, making sure for an even and         unobstructed air flow     -   5) Inside wall studs.

FIG. 7)

-   -   1) roof flooring     -   2) the supporting post     -   3) the mat or backing for the continuous rolled or flat air         baffle     -   4) the flanged ends that are connected to the continuous rolled         or flat flexible backing or mat     -   5) roof rafter or roof truss end     -   6) insulation between the roof rafter, or roof truss     -   7) the self adhesive flanged tape attached to the bottom of the         roof flooring.     -   8) The clean and unobstructed air flow section between the         supporting post.

FIG. 8)

-   -   1) the roof flooring     -   2) the supporting post ends sticking to the roof flooring     -   3) the continuous rolled or flat flexible backing or mat     -   4) the two separate self adhesive taped ends, taped securely         together to form a tight seal so the airflow won't be blocked by         the insulation pushing up against it.     -   5) The two separate air baffles are attached to the side of the         roof rafter or roof truss     -   6) Insulation in the roof bay     -   7) Roof rafters on roof truss

FIG. 9)

-   -   1) the protected self-adhesive tape tab is being removed just         before installing between the roof rafters or roof truss     -   2) exposed self adhesive glue with the protected tape end being         pulled off     -   3) the supporting post ends without the protected seal cover on     -   4) the support post     -   5) supporting backing or mat. 

1) A rolled or batt insulation material with paper facing FIG.
 1. 2) The batt insulation clearly showing vertical and horizontal elastic pre-folded self-adhesive tape end with built in extensions. FIG. 1-A. 3) The horizontal flange marker the start of hanging the insulation faster. FIG. 1-B. 4) Even when the insulation bays are uneven, which is very common in renovations one worker can still install easily starting from the top flange FIG. 1-B. 5) If the insulation bay is uneven, the worker would start from the top and place the Insulation to one side or the other for a tight fit, then the worker would fill in the other side with insulation to fill in the empty gap. Then the worker would use the elastic extended flap to cover the insulation for a tight fit. FIG. 1-C. 6) Showing the batt face insulation with pre-measuring marks on, so there is no need for a measuring tape. FIG. 2-A. 7) The rolled insulation, FIG. 3 clearly shows pre-measuring marks for every eight feet on the paper face. FIG. 3-A. 8) FIG. 2 has all four flaps open and against the wall. FIG. 2-B. 9) The double sided adhesive tape shown with the flaps sealed against the paper face so to be installed in a crawl space with the other side being pushed up against the bottom side of the floor. FIG. 4-A. 10) The extended flange works well when one would need extra space below or above preexisting plumbing, and wires. FIG. 5-A. 11) Reinforced paper prefolded, hanger straps, that have double sided adhesive tape end, which very easily go down and around the unfaced section of the insulation for a secure fit to the floor joist so the insulation won't fall down. FIG. 5-B. 12) FIG. 6—shows indivisible self-adhesive tape end 6-A. 13) FIG. 6—the paper insulation holder that is not only extra wide so as to hold the insulation better, but is very strong and permanent. FIG. 6-B. 14) The insulation batts can be easily attached by the ends, so there is no open space to allow the loss of clean air ventilation or not to let heat or air conditioning escape, so there is no condensation build up. FIG. 2-B. 15) The folded insulation can be cut at any length and rejoined, because of the double adhesive tape end that can be retaped. FIG.
 3. 16) The extra heavy and reinforced paper hanger, can easily be removed from the batt or rolled insulation and reconnected for another application. FIG. 6-B. 17) If the worker tears a hole into the face of the insulation, you can easily tear or cut along the perforated lines on the extra wide flange to repair the rip in the face, so there is no energy loss or condensation build-up. FIG. 2-C. 18) The paper hangers that are extra wide and heavy duty can be easily reversed from one side of the insulation to the other side. FIG. 5-B. 19) The double sided self adhesive tape is water resistant, so if there is a build up of water condensation, one would not have to worry about the insulation flanges failing. 20) When the worker is installing the insulation it can be removed, if not at first properly in place. 21) Because of the extra wide, and extra strong flange, you are also able to encapsulated the insulation whether or not the batts are rolled, by simply folding all the corners and attaching them to each other. 22) Encapsulated insulation can be easily hung from its own paper hangers. 23) When the worker is installing the tack full flange, all he has to do is push in and the many little tacks that are in the full flange automatically stick to any wood surface. FIG. 7-A. 24) There is no need for any tools for a complete insulation, because the insulation bats and rolled insulation has measurement marks all ready on the paper face and the extended full flanges. FIG. 8-A. 25) If the insulation bays are off and a little wider then should be, then all the worker has to do is stuff the one side with some more insulation to fill in the gap. FIG. 10-A. 26) This type of full flange insulation with tack, will give a full and tight fit. FIG. 7-A. 27) Unlike the so called Knauf Staple-Free Batt Insulation Aug, 5, 2004-13 this is very unlikely this product would ever be used in unfinished basements, or crawl spaces, but for the same price, if not less, my invention, the full flange tack insulation can be installed and not have to worry about he batts or rolled insulation falling down. FIG. 11-A. 28) Simple engineering and common sense will prove how unreliable the Knauf-Staple Free Insulation is. It will fail. But with my full flange tack insulation being installed, there is constant horizontal pressure push against many small tacks all ways. FIG. 12-A. 29) One in the profession would just look and see bow much more work can be done in a shorter amount of time and completely safe for the installer that's using good gloves. FIG. 9A. 30) The full flange tacks stay within the paper flange until installed, by the installer simply pushing forward, the sides automatically push through the paper and into the wood studs, floor joists, roof rafters or the roof truss. FIG. 13-A. 31) There is no need for any other insulation support. 32) This full flange tack insulation will not fall down when installing in a vertical wall, because the many tacks digging into the wood always never letting up, but common sense will tell me, simply because of constant gravity, the Knauf Staple-Free batts will fall down, simply because of the known open space between the 12-13 insulation and the open space using a 2×4 wall, with the constant pulling down gravity. After a while there will be an open space at the top of the wall, and there will be a water condensation problem. FIG. 14-A. 33) The fraction of a cent to install the full flange tack insulation will add dollars of savings for man hours, 34) No way to tear the paper face to cause a loss of the vapor banner, that's so important. FIG. 14-A. 35) If a mistake is made, all the worker has to do is to slide their gloves in between the stud, joist, rafter or truss and slightly push their hands together, and the insulation will come out, undamaged. FIG. 15-A. 